I'd bet a beer you have an aftermarket alarm system. Nissan dealer will be of no help if this is the case. Try a car stereo type place or buddy that deals with this kind of stuff.

You may want to try putting the window down. Get out. Close door. Lock the doors from the outside with the power lock switch and wait a few minutes. Then reach in from the outside, unlock the doors with the power lock switch. You could be able to get in and then start the truck as normal.

The logic I am using here has to do with domelight supervision and the pulse sent to the alarm brain via the power door lock switch. Using the key lock from the outside evidently doesn't send the pulse the alarm expects from using the door lock. The dome light coming on makes the alarm think the truck has been broken into. Reasoning is the alarm needs to sound if somebody breaks the glass and reaches in and pulls the handle from outside. Hope this makes sense, and good luck.

 

its not aftermarket, its the factory alarm. I tried your trick, didn't work. I read on another website about using the key in the door lock and holding it in the unlock position for a few seconds. That seems to have disabled the security system as the Security Light is no longer flashing, and when I open the door the head lights/hazards/and horn don't go off, but when I try to start the truck I get nothing. Everything powers up as normal, get the "key in ignition" chime when I open the door, its in Park, but I get nothing.

 

It sounds like its not turning over?
I would check the relay's? i know on the manual transmission the inhibitor relay was a big problem, you could put the key in with everything running ok then when you turn the key nothing. Not even a CLICK

 

yeah Zombie its not turning over at all. All the lights come on as normal, radio, what ever, but no crankitty. And my truck is different then that picture you put up. I have a single fuse/relay box on the right side under the hood. I spent about an hour on the phone with a shade tree Nissan mechanic, good guy, and he walked me through a few tricks.. ie, checked every single fuse in the truck, including the ones under the dash, and disconnected the battery, and after letting it sit, reconnect it with the key in the ignition in the on position. All fuses were good, and the battery trick didn't work. He said there is a starter interlock that prevents it from activating when it detects a "theft". So I got a locksmith coming out tomorrow to scan it and hopefully reset it, and make sure my key program is okay, and maybe even reprogram the stupid fob!

 

That sux all you can do now is wait and see. The other thing that i have seen is the brake switch not engaging and not letting the truck turn over?let us know what happens tomorrow. (i am assuming its a auto cause you said you had it in park.)

 

Never mind, didn't read your follow up post fully. Battery trick worked for me last week. Just to confirm you turned the key to "ON", disconnected the positive battery cable and let it sit for a few minutes and reconnect and turn over?

 

yeah, its an auto. I'm betting its the interlock and the "theft mode" thing. But thanks guys, and I'll let you all know once I have an idea or better yet a fix!



yeah Stunt, that's what I tried, but to no avail. Wouldn't even turn over, just powers up and sits there

 

Doubtful. I personally did the positive cable on my truck. I literally had the same thing happen maybe 4 days ago. I also have a 2000 however if that makes a difference.

 

This happened to my frontier when I had it, your computer kills the power to the ignition because it "thinks" there is something wrong. There is no difference between pulling the pos or neg and it will give you the same result. I believe you need to re program your key fob. When I ordered 2 key fobs off ebay I had to re program them to my vehicle. I would try and locate the instructions on how to re-program your fob. I'll see if I can find my instructions in the meantime.

Also, my key fob broke on the inside and I was able to put it back together just to hit the unlock button. It's likely that the "button fell off the button" meaning when you break it a part you will see a small button that is on top of the metal piece that is the actual button that is soldered in place. The small button sometimes breaks free from the actual button just enough to wear it won't engage the actual button. Confusing I know but i hope it helps!

I found these online:
"IMPORTANT: Before entering programming mode, have in possession all of the transmitters you will be using on the vehicle. Once you program the transmitter, all previous codes will be erased from the memory. The other transmitters will not be functional until you program the transmitters again.

1. Close and lock all doors with the driver’s side power lock/unlock switch.

2. Insert key into ignition and remove it from the ignition key cylinder at least six times within 10 seconds. Your Hazard
Lamps will flash if you have performed this step successfully. NOTE: Withdraw key completely from ignition cylinder
each time. If this procedure is performed too fast, system will not enter programming mode.

3. Insert key into the ignition cylinder and turn to the ACC position.

4. Within 5 seconds, push ANY button on the remote transmitter. Your Hazard Lamps should flash. NOTE: Do not press
the button more than one time in the above step. If the button is pressed more than one time, the programming
procedure will not be successful.

5. If there are any remaining transmitters (including the old ones), unlock then lock all doors using the driver’s side
power lock/unlock switch and within 5 seconds, push ANY button on the next remote. Your Hazard Lamps should
flash. Repeat this step for each transmitter (including any existing transmitters).

6. Turn the key to the OFF position, remove keys from the ignition, unlock doors using the driver’s side power lock/unlock switch and open the driver side door."

http://www.programyourremote.com/classified/DisplayAd.asp?id=1033

 

Since our trucks didnt come with pats system your key and fob have nothing to do with it. You can operate your truck without owning fobs. Your fob only unlocks the truck, once you put a key in the ijn and turn to on it would disable the security.
Sounds like you have an internal problem. id start with the ign switch and see if its getting power to the ecu for start. and check your starter for power when its cranked.
is your key sloppy in the ign? wiggle up or down?

 

I'm not saying that you're wrong as they do not have the PATS but this exact thing happened to me 5 years ago. When the fob broke on mine it confused the system and Nissan has there own passive security system linked in with the ignition that doesn't require a chipped key. When your key fob breaks and it is locked and in security mode the computer sometimes gets confused and it "arms" the system and gives no power to the ignition. I rigged my fob so it would work once, hooked the battery back up (horn still going off in alarm mode) and unlocked with the key fob. Worked perfectly after and I did not lock it until my new fobs showed up.

 

Well the good news is my truck is running again. Locksmith pulled the #5 Fuse and the truck fired right up. Sucks cause I had that fuse out twice and never knew to try to start it with the fuse out. The fuse panel has it labeled as ELEC IGN, and apparently its the fuse to the security system relay. If I had a schematic I woulda been able to figure it out and save the money. Locksmith suspects the relay went out, so no security or fob for the time being, but at least I can drive again!

Here is the schematic the Locksmith printed and had with them, and gave to me. I highlighted the fuse and relay section in the red box:

 

^ thanks for reporting back, that is good info to know.

 

On a side note, found out that the fuse has to be in to use the electric windows. Fortunately it was easy.. started the truck, inserted fuse, rolled windows down, removed fuse, drove away... easy enuff when I have no money at the moment..

 

alright guys, little update for anyone that might be following the thread or having the same or similar issues with their vehicle. I finally pulled the lower part of my dash to try to find the security relay to test it. At this point I have no manual at all, and I found like 6 relays under the dash. So I pulled and tested each one. At first I just did the click test, then I went back and did a continuity test with my multi-meter. All relays test fine. I check the 5 that are in the fuse block under the hood, and again all fine. So at this point I'm confused and flabbergasted so I come back inside and redo a bunch of internet searches and low and behold I finally found a free downloadable electrical manual! yay me! start going thru it and found all kinds of good stuff to check, included the "smart entrance control unit". Never hear of that one before. So I google search it and find the kinds of problems people are having with their secu's. So I print off the schematic and inspection table, along with some other diagnosis tests. I went thru and checked every part I could for my truck.. and now its gone from a bad $5 relay to a bad $205 secu.

:willy_nilly: